The SS15 collection of Angelos Bratis is inspired by the pared down architectural modernism and the last erotic paintings of renowned artist Yannis Moralis, one of the important figures in painting and the cultural debate in Greece between the late 50’s and 70’s.
The contemporary poetry of Angelos Bratis does in fact share the pure and abstract mathematical approach of Moralis’ work applied to dynamic compositions of simple and rough geometric shapes, researching the same necessary tension of balance and conceptual harmony; ultimately embracing the same powerful and minimal graphic vision. Ultra-versatile dresses and kaftans created for every female type. Crêpe de Chine, semi-stretch cady and essential foulards in silk twill constitute the intentionally limited, mathematical vocabulary which the Hellenic designer explores to render yet more evident the characteristic, unmistakable codes of his luminous aesthetic: basic and yet extremely sophisticated.
The password is the mastery of cut, the significant lightness, the independent and sinuous movement of material around the body which suddenly appears freed from all restraint or restriction whilst continuing to maintain an absolute control. A tinge of sensuality interlaced with almost stately linear substraction; rarified and distant, ultra-modern and timeless. “The bias cut – adds Angelos Bratis – the play of the diagonal which is the unceasing foundation and the real passionate cypher for my design journey, finds fresh possibilities which are explored and declined in this collection.”
Triangles, rectangles and semi-circles are starting points for diverse and elusive patterns. A composition which is the synthesis of a study of triangular morphologies, kaftans made from rhomboidal puzzles to arrive at ultra-complex drapings which liberate rigid and plastic constructions in a final radiant and vibratile liquid dimension. A suspended light and tonal colour palette, again close to the pictorial vision and special tones of Moralis: beige, gold, an electric pink, the energy of sunshine yellow and the unfathomable depths of white. Spurred on by touches of black and by various nuances of blue, a blue ranging from ultramarine to the enveloping mystery of the night sky.
In the same spirit as the dresses are the jewels by Maria Mastori, sculptural pieces in wood, gold-leaf and brass have organic impact. Morphologies with ancestral and linear echoes, as if made smooth by seawater.